Six Stages, in This Order, Every Time
The sequence is not arbitrary. Each stage removes a variable that would otherwise corrupt the next one, which is why we will not skip ahead even when a player arrives certain they know what they need.
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The conversation, before anything is touched
Ten minutes on what you play, where you play it, and what specifically goes wrong. We are listening for pattern language — "only when I try to hit it hard", "always on the second nine", "fine off the mat, terrible off grass" — because that tells us which measurements will matter. What we are not asking for is your handicap.
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Hands, wrists and current grip wear
Span from thumb crease to middle fingertip, both hands. Wrist-to-floor in the shoes you play in. Glove seam width. Then we read the wear on your current grips, which shows where you hold pressure and whether the grip has been rotating. This is why we ask you not to regrip before coming in.
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Grip build, set before any ball is struck
Core size, compound and tape build-up get decided here and installed on the test clubs. Every swing you take afterwards is on a grip that already fits you, so the numbers that follow are not contaminated by a diameter you have been unconsciously compensating for.
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Turf board and dynamic lie
Real divots on a board loaded with local sod. We read entry depth, divot length, heel or toe drag, and how much the sole skids before contact. For irons this sets dynamic lie; for wedges it drives the entire bounce and grind decision.
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Component testing, narrowed not sprayed
By this point the field is usually down to a handful of candidates rather than a wall of them. We test head and shaft combinations back to back on the same grip build, with your own current club in the rotation as the control. If your club wins, it wins.
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Build, cure, re-check, card
Theo cuts, bores, weights and assembles at the bench behind the bay. After the epoxy fully cures, every spec is measured again — because that is when a rushed build quietly drifts. Then the written card is finished and handed over with the clubs.
You Leave With a Document, Not a Verbal Summary
Every session produces a written build card listing each club's finished specification in plain industry terms: length, lie, loft, swing weight, frequency, grip model, core size and wrap count, plus any sole work performed.
It is deliberately written so that any competent builder anywhere can read it and reproduce the club. Nothing is coded in house shorthand, and nothing is withheld to keep you coming back here. Several of our regulars have had work done elsewhere while travelling using nothing but the card.
- One card per club, all specs measured post-cure
- Before-and-after columns where we adjusted an existing club
- Grip programme written so it can be reordered without us
- Kept on file here as well, in case you lose your copy
- Playing length
- 35 1/4 in
- Lie, dynamic
- 63.0°
- Effective bounce
- 12°
- Grind
- Trailing edge relieved
- Swing weight
- D4
- Grip / build-up
- Cord, 0.580 + 1 wrap
The Ninety Days Are the Point
Feel does not settle in the bay. It settles somewhere around round four, which is why the adjustment window exists and why we chase you to use it.
Play four rounds
Not one. The first round with a new spec is always strange, and the second is usually too deliberate to tell you anything.
Tell us what changed
Curtis calls at around the three-week mark. If something feels heavy, thin, long or twitchy, that is exactly what we want to hear.
We adjust, no charge
Tape, length, lie, swing weight or a grip swap on anything we built. Ninety days on single sessions, six months on a whole bag.
Start With Whichever Club Annoys You Most
There is no correct entry point. Fix one, play it for a season, come back for the next one when it starts to bother you.